To use a Smith’s knife sharpener, pull the blade through the coarse carbide slot 3 or 4 times with light pressure (only if the knife is dull), then 8 to 10 times through the fine ceramic slot to polish the edge. Always pull from the heel to the tip, keep the blade straight up and down, and let the preset angle do the work.
That covers the yellow pull-through models most people own. My favorite is the Smith’s Pocket Pal, because it adds a diamond rod for serrations and hooks.
My Top 5 Smith’s Sharpeners
Carbide, ceramic and a fold-out diamond rod in a tool that weighs about an ounce. It handles plain edges, serrations and fish hooks, which covers almost everything I’d carry outdoors.
Two slots, rubber feet, nothing to figure out. If you just want a dull pocket or fillet knife working again, this is the easiest Smith’s to start with.
The pullover design keeps your hand behind a full-length guard, and the handle hides a scissors sharpener. A handy drawer tool for a house full of dull blades.
Six angle settings from 14 to 24 degrees, so you can match the sharpener to the knife instead of the other way round. The one I’d pick for a mix of outdoor and kitchen knives.
A small two-sided diamond stone with a handle. It takes more skill than a pull-through, but it removes less steel and teaches you real sharpening.
Smith’s Sharpeners Compared
| Sharpener | Type | Abrasives | Angle | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Smith’s PP1 Pocket Pal | Pull-through + rod | Carbide, ceramic, diamond rod | Preset | Outdoor kits, serrations, hooks |
| Smith’s CCKS 2-Step | Pull-through | Carbide, ceramic | Preset | Quick fixes on pocket and fillet knives |
| Smith’s JIFF-S 10-Second | Pullover | Carbide; ceramic rod for scissors | Preset | Knives and scissors at home |
| Smith’s Adjustable Angle | Pull-through | Carbide, ceramic | 14 to 24 degrees | Mixed knife collections |
| Smith’s DCS4 | Handheld stone | Coarse and fine diamond | Freehand | Learning to sharpen by hand |
How to Use a Smith’s Pull-Through Sharpener (Step by Step)
These steps work for the Pocket Pal, the CCKS 2-Step and most other two-slot Smith’s sharpeners. The coarse slot (usually marked “carbide” or “coarse”) has two crossed carbide blades that shave a new edge. The fine slot has crossed ceramic rods that smooth and polish it.
- Put the sharpener on a flat, stable surface if it has a base or rubber feet, and hold it firmly with your free hand. Smaller tools like the Pocket Pal can be held in the hand; keep your fingers away from the slot.
- Decide if you need the coarse slot. Only use the carbide slot when the knife is truly dull or has small nicks. If it’s just lost its bite, skip straight to the ceramic.
- Pull through the coarse slot. Set the heel of the blade (the part nearest the handle) in the slot, hold the blade straight up and down, and pull it toward you with light pressure all the way to the tip. Repeat 3 or 4 times, always in the same direction.
- Pull through the fine slot. Same motion in the ceramic slot, about 8 to 10 times, with even lighter pressure.
- Wipe the blade and test it. Wipe off the metal dust with a cloth, then slice a sheet of paper. If it snags, a few more pulls through the ceramic usually fix it.
On a curved blade, lift the handle slightly as you reach the tip so the belly stays in contact with the abrasives. And never saw back and forth in the carbide slot; it chews up the edge instead of sharpening it.
How to Sharpen Serrated Knives and Hooks With the Diamond Rod
Use the tapered diamond rod on the Pocket Pal, never the carbide slot, for serrated edges. Carbide flattens the scallops instead of sharpening them.
- Fold out the rod and find the serrated side’s bevel (the ground side; the other side is usually flat).
- Place the rod in one scallop where its thickness matches the scallop’s width, at roughly the same angle as the bevel.
- Push the rod through the scallop a few times with light pressure, then move to the next one.
- Finish with one light pass of the flat side across the fine ceramic slot or a flat stone to remove the burr (the thin curl of metal sharpening leaves behind).
The same rod works on fish hooks and gut hooks: draw the hook’s point along the rod’s groove from the inside of the bend toward the point a few times.
How to Use the Smith’s 10-Second Sharpener
The JIFF-S works the other way round: you move the sharpener over the knife instead of pulling the knife through it.
- Lay the knife on the edge of a sturdy table with the cutting edge facing up and hold the handle down firmly.
- Grip the sharpener with your fingers behind the full-length guard and your thumb on the thumb rest.
- Set the “V” on the heel of the blade, at a right angle to the edge.
- Draw the sharpener along the edge from heel to tip with light to medium pressure. Repeat 4 or 5 times.
When the carbide blades wear out, they can be reversed and later replaced: remove the screw and cover, rotate the blades to a fresh side, and reassemble. The scissors slot in the handle works for right- and left-handed scissors: open the scissors and draw one blade at a time through the slot.
How to Use the Adjustable Angle Sharpener
Set the angle first, then sharpen exactly like a two-slot pull-through. Turn the knob to match the knife’s edge angle (14 to 24 degrees). If the maker doesn’t say, a setting around 20 degrees suits most pocket, hunting and German kitchen knives; lower angles give a keener but more delicate edge. Use the separate fixed-angle slot for serrated knives.
How to Use a Smith’s Diamond Stone
A diamond stone like the DCS4 sharpens freehand, so you hold the angle yourself.
- Diamond stones don’t need soaking. A few drops of water or honing solution help keep the surface clear of metal dust.
- Hold the blade at about 20 degrees to the stone. Two stacked coins under the spine are a rough starting guide.
- Sweep the edge across the coarse side as if slicing a thin layer off the stone, heel to tip, until you feel a slight burr along the other side.
- Repeat on the second side, then switch to the fine side and use lighter strokes, alternating sides.
Freehand takes practice, but it’s the skill that carries over to whetstones later. My guide on how to sharpen a pocket knife goes through the same technique in more depth.
Mistakes to Avoid With a Smith’s Sharpener
Pressing too hard
Light pressure is all it takes. Heavy pressure makes the knife jump in the slot, can make you lose control of the blade, and removes more metal than needed.
Using the carbide slot every time
Carbide removes steel fast. Save it for a truly dull knife and use the ceramic slot for regular touch-ups, and your knives will last much longer.
Putting Japanese knives through a pull-through
I’d keep thin, hard Japanese kitchen knives away from carbide pull-throughs. Their edges are ground at narrower angles and can chip. Use a whetstone or ceramic rod for those, and save the Smith’s for pocket, outdoor and everyday kitchen knives.
Skipping the cleanup
Metal dust builds up in the slots. Brush it out now and then, and wipe your knife before using it on food.
1. Smith’s PP1 Pocket Pal: Best Overall
Who it’s for: hunters, anglers and campers who want one tiny sharpener for every blade in the pack.
The Pocket Pal is the Smith’s I’d recommend to most people because it does three jobs. The coarse carbide slot puts a quick edge on dull knives, the fine ceramic slot polishes it and also works on serrated edges, and the fold-out tapered diamond rod handles serrations, gut hooks and fish hooks. It’s 3.5″ long, weighs about an ounce and has a lanyard hole.
The carbide and ceramic pieces are reversible and replaceable, so it lasts longer than its size suggests. My reservation is that it’s small: on a big kitchen knife, you have to keep the blade very steady in a short slot, and a tool with a base is easier.
Key specs
- Abrasives: carbide (coarse), ceramic (fine), tapered diamond-coated rod
- Preset angles
- Size: 3.5″ x 1″; weight about 1 oz
- Reversible, replaceable carbide and ceramic; lanyard hole
Pros
- Sharpens plain edges, serrations and hooks
- Pocket size and very light
- Replaceable abrasives
Cons
- Small to hold steady with long knives
- Preset angle can’t match every knife
It’s the sharpener I’d add to any of the kits in my best knives for backpacking guide.
My verdict: the Smith’s to keep in an outdoor kit. For kitchen knives only, the adjustable model is a better fit.
2. Smith’s CCKS 2-Step Knife Sharpener: Simplest to Use
Who it’s for: anyone who wants the easiest possible sharpener for pocket, fillet and everyday knives.
The CCKS is Smith’s most basic two-stage sharpener: a coarse slot with crossed tungsten carbide blades and a fine slot with crossed ceramic rods, both at preset angles. Non-slip rubber feet keep it still on a table, it’s small enough for a tackle box, and Smith’s says it floats if you drop it in the water.
It’s especially handy for fillet knives, which dull quickly and need frequent touch-ups (my best fish fillet knives guide has the knives to pair it with). What it lacks is a rod for serrations or hooks, so if you carry serrated blades, the Pocket Pal is the better buy. It also feels like what it is: a simple plastic tool.
Key specs
- Abrasives: tungsten carbide (coarse), ceramic rods (fine)
- Preset angles
- Size: 2.33″ x 2.71″; under 2 oz
- Rubber feet, lanyard hole, floats
Pros
- Very easy to use
- Stable on a table
- Costs very little
Cons
- No rod for serrations or hooks
- Basic plastic build
My verdict: the no-thinking sharpener for a tackle box or drawer. Spend a little more for the Pocket Pal if you own serrated knives.
3. Smith’s JIFF-S 10-Second Sharpener: Best for Knives and Scissors
Who it’s for: households that want one cheap tool for dull knives and dull scissors.
This is the pullover style: you draw the sharpener along the knife rather than pulling the knife through it. The “V” holds two crossed carbide blades at a preset angle, and a full-length finger and thumb guard keeps your hand away from the edge. The handle has a patented scissors sharpener with a floating ceramic rod that adapts to the scissors’ angle, for right- and left-handed scissors.
It’s quick, and the carbide blades can be reversed and then replaced, so the tool outlasts its first edge. The downside is that it’s carbide only for knives: there’s no fine stage, so edges come out sharp but a little rough. I’d follow it with a few strokes on a ceramic rod if you have one.
Key specs
- Knife sharpener: crossed carbide blades, preset angle
- Scissors sharpener: floating ceramic rod, right- and left-handed
- Full-length finger and thumb guard
- Reversible, replaceable carbide blades
Pros
- Sharpens scissors as well as knives
- Guard keeps fingers safe
- Very fast
Cons
- No fine stage for knives
- Carbide removes more steel than ceramic
My verdict: a useful drawer tool for scissors and rough knives. For a polished edge, one of the two-stage models is better.
4. Smith’s Adjustable Angle Pull-Thru Sharpener: Best Adjustable Angle
Who it’s for: people with a mix of knives (pocket, hunting, fillet and kitchen) who want each sharpened at the right angle.
Preset sharpeners use one angle for everything, which is fine for most outdoor knives but not ideal for all of them. This Smith’s has six angle settings from 14 to 24 degrees: turn the knob and both the coarse carbide and fine ceramic slots adjust together. A separate fixed-angle slot handles serrated edges, and there’s a groove for hooks.
It sits on a non-slip base with a soft grip handle, which makes it the steadiest Smith’s here for long kitchen knives. The carbides and ceramic rods are replaceable. My reservation: it’s bulkier than the pocket models, so it’s a home or truck tool, not a pack one.
Key specs
- Angle: 6 settings, 14 to 24 degrees
- Abrasives: carbide (coarse), ceramic (fine); fixed-angle serrated slot
- Non-slip base, soft grip handle
- Replaceable carbides and ceramic rods
Pros
- Matches the angle to each knife
- Stable base for longer blades
- Serrated slot included
Cons
- Bulkier than the pocket models
- You need to know your knife’s angle
My verdict: the most versatile Smith’s at home. Pick the Pocket Pal if it has to fit in a pocket.
5. Smith’s DCS4 Diamond Combination Sharpener: Best for Learning Freehand
Who it’s for: outdoor users who want to learn freehand sharpening without carrying a full-size stone.
The DCS4 is a 4″ two-sided diamond stone, coarse on one side and fine on the other, with micro-sized monocrystalline diamonds and an interrupted surface that collects metal filings. Each side has a small pad and groove for fish hooks and pointed tools. When you’re done, the stone stores inside its rubber-grip handle, which also has a thumb guard.
Unlike the pull-throughs, it doesn’t hold the angle for you, so expect a learning curve. In return, it removes metal more gently and works on any blade shape, including axes and hatchets. At 4″, it’s small for long kitchen knives; it’s best on pocket and hunting knives.
Key specs
- Abrasives: coarse and fine diamond, two-sided
- Stone length: 4″
- Hook and point groove on each side
- Stone stores inside rubber-grip handle with thumb guard
Pros
- Teaches real freehand sharpening
- Gentler on edges than carbide
- Stores compactly
Cons
- You have to hold the angle yourself
- Short for kitchen knives
My verdict: the Smith’s for people who want to get better at sharpening. If you just want a sharp knife fast, buy a pull-through.
FAQ
How do you use a Smith’s knife sharpener?
Pull the knife from heel to tip through the coarse carbide slot 3 or 4 times if it’s dull, then 8 to 10 times through the fine ceramic slot. Hold the blade straight up and down and use light pressure. Skip the coarse slot if the knife only needs a touch-up.
Which slot do you use first, coarse or fine?
Coarse first, then fine, but only when the knife is dull. The coarse carbide slot sets a new edge; the fine ceramic slot polishes it. For regular maintenance, use the fine slot on its own.
Can you sharpen serrated knives with a Smith’s sharpener?
Yes, but not in the carbide slot. Use the tapered diamond rod (Pocket Pal), a dedicated serrated slot (Adjustable Angle), or a few light pulls through the ceramic slot.
Do Smith’s sharpeners work for left-handed people?
Yes. Pull-through sharpeners sharpen both sides of the edge at once, so they work the same in either hand. Hold the sharpener with your non-dominant hand and pull the knife with your dominant one.
How do you use a Smith’s electric knife sharpener?
The same way as a manual one, but with lighter, slower pulls: let the motor do the work, use the coarse stage only on dull knives and finish in the fine stage. Pull at an even speed from heel to tip and alternate slots if the model has separate left and right slots.
How do you replace the blades on a Smith’s sharpener?
On models with reversible carbides, remove the screw and the cover, turn the carbide blades to their unused side and reassemble. When both sides are worn, Smith’s sells replacements for many models.
Final Verdict
Using a Smith’s sharpener is simple: coarse slot only when the knife is dull, fine slot for every touch-up, light pressure, heel to tip. The Smith’s PP1 Pocket Pal is the one I’d buy for most people because its diamond rod also handles serrations and hooks. The CCKS 2-Step is the easiest and cheapest, and the Adjustable Angle model is the best fit if you sharpen kitchen knives too.
Comparing brands? See my Lansky pocket knife sharpener guide for the main outdoor alternative, or how to sharpen Cuisinart knives for kitchen pull-throughs.
Gary Portman founded knivesadvice.com in 2019. He learned to cook in his family’s kitchen as a kid and has used kitchen, pocket and outdoor knives ever since, from paring and fillet knives to survival blades he carries camping and hiking. He writes the site’s buying guides, brand reviews and sharpening how-tos to help readers find the right knife for the job. More about Gary.